THAILAND: NORTH TO SOUTH
From the Golden Triangle where three countries meet, to the towering limestone karsts and brilliant seas of the south – we unravel scenic adventures across some of Thailand’s richest landscapes.
Centuries ago, in what was then called Siam, foreign travellers found themselves captivated by crystal-clear turquoise waters, dramatic limestone cliffs, and lush jungle shrouding misty mountains. So enchanted by this land and its people, some chose to stay forever
In those days, travel through the region often meant a slow and somewhat legendary journey by sea then river, navigating a network of waterways that fed one of the most fertile agricultural regions in the world. When the waters finally grew too shallow for boats, travellers would continue on foot, sometimes relying on elephants or water buffalo to carry their goods. Along the overgrown paths they trod, the threat of encountering a wild tiger was ever present.
Much has changed since then, most notably when Siam became the Kingdom of Thailand in 1932. Few wild tigers remain, and even the most remote areas are now reachable by road, rail or air. Yet its alluring landscape still calls out to adventurers, just as it did for those early explorers.
Jagged mountains form the southeastern foothills of the Himalayas amid the relatively cool climes of northern Thailand, where our journey begins. Draped in jungle and dotted with terraced rice paddies and tea plantations, the highest peaks reach above 2,500 metres, with the switchback curves that grace their slopes affording stunning vistas of layered ridgelines
With the morning mist just clearing, we lace up our boots for a Walk with Giants, a unique programme that introduces guests to elephants in a humane manner at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort.
Set near Thailand’s northernmost point, the property stretches to both the Ruak River (within shouting distance of Myanmar) and the famous Mekong River (across from Laos). Its camp is home to some 20 elephants rescued from street begging, illegal logging and abusive tourist sites, now cared for by the non-profit Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation.
After a day of adventure, we step into one of the resort’s extraordinary Jungle Bubbles as cool air meets the twilight. Elephants freely stroll past our bubble’s circular shell, made of stiff, high-tech polyester – so transparent that we feel like we’re outside while enjoying luxurious, air-conditioned comfort within. As night falls, we lie back and gaze up as the sky comes to life with constellations.
As our journey through the dense jungle of the north draws to an end, we arrive in the soul of the kingdom at Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort and watch banana-shaped longtail boats zip across a bustling stretch of the Chao Phraya River. After a pleasant exchange with the concierge, we find ourselves cruising on a guided boat tour the next morning with the Anantara Khlong Insider.
We discover that an older way of life persists among the many khlongs, or canals, that stretch west from downtown Bangkok into the old Thonburi part of town. A woman with a straw hat rows her sampan over to our longtail boat to offer a bundle of fresh bananas. Floating vendors like her are still relatively common in Thonburi, even as skytrain stations now overshadow the khlongs in places.
Back at the resort, we climb into a luxury barge of Loy Pela Voyages – the Loy River Song – and drift up the Chao Phraya River to Ayutthaya. From the 14th century to 1767, when a Burmese invasion forced the Siamese to move their capital 80 km south to Bangkok, Ayutthaya was one of Asia’s largest and most impressive capitals. Its skyline of twinkling gold spires impressed many an early traveller.
Two rivers – the Lopburi and the Pasak – meet the Chao Phraya to encircle Ayutthaya, where the ruins of palaces and religious monuments tower beside modern markets and schools. Mosques, missionary churches and Chinese ancestral shrines together hint at the rich cultural diversity that defined this city centuries ago.
Jumping into one of Ayutthaya’s signature frog-shaped tuk-tuks, we head out of town to climb the 14th-century Chedi Phu Khao Thong. From the upper platform of this towering, cone-shaped edifice, we gaze over bright green rice paddies dissected by khlongs. In the distance, water buffalo relax as white herons drive their long beaks into the mud. A farmer naps, his bare feet protruding from a thatched hut.
To round off the day, we lie down for a Thai massage at Anantara Spa. Carefully applied pressure releases bodily stress as we reflect on how, in the landscapes we’ve seen, a sense of continuity reaches through time.
Our journey now takes us from land to sea, yet the presence of enveloping jungle and dense greenery remains a constant, offering cooling shade as we relax.
Off the large island of Koh Samui in southern Thailand, the wind propels our chartered sailboat towards a magnificent chain of 42 protected islands, collectively known as Ang Thong, or the “Golden Basin.” Cliffs begin to dwarf our boat, concealing sea caves as a school of angelfish swims by.
We shuffle through powdery coral sand before ascending to a viewpoint overlooking a lagoon, encircled on all sides by vertical limestone cliffs. Here, at Koh Mae Koh, the water gleams like molten emerald and jade.
These karst massifs began as coral reefs, we learn, which solidified into limestone after tectonic movements thrust them above sea level more than 200 million years ago. They were once part of a colossal reef system that stretched from modern-day Sumatra to southern China: look closely – ancient seashells and marine fossils are still embedded in the rocks.
Back on Koh Samui, we enjoy the private plunge pool of our luxurious villa at Anantara Lawana Koh Samui Resort. We then discover that the sister island to the north, Koh Phangan, offers an even more laid-back island spirit. At Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villas, days effortlessly drift by on Thong Nai Pan Noi Beach, one of the island’s most beautiful, where the infinity pool blends into the sky. Magnificent snorkelling and dive sites are scattered across the archipelago, even more accessible than from our haven on Samui.
As we watch the sun rise over the Gulf of Thailand the next morning, we hop into an open-topped Jeep and rumble past rubber trees lined up in neat rows across plantation after plantation. A coconut falls with a plunk, freed from its branch by the salty breeze.
Venturing to the west coast of Thailand’s Malay Peninsula, the final leg of our adventure awaits. We check into Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Villas with its sunset-facing villas hidden away along a stretch of the Andaman coastline that is tranquil and soothing in every way.
Occasionally visited by nesting leatherback sea turtles, an endangered species and the largest, Mai Khao’s golden beach stretches alongside pine trees and into the vast forests of Sirinath National Park. Stepping onto the soft sands that front our pool villa, we spot a family in the distance building sandcastles.
Once abundant in the world’s oceans, sea turtles have seen their numbers dramatically decline over the past century. These incredible creatures, which instinctively return to the very beaches where they were born to lay their eggs, are now facing the threat of extinction.
Tourism and wildlife protection can often seem at odds with one another. But as we witness, Anantara is paving the way to protect these turtles. Working closely with both Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation and the Phuket Marine Biological Centre, guests can participate in the annual release of rehabilitated sea turtles into the ocean.
As dusk settles, we’re guided by Khun Nok, Anantara’s naturalist (whose name means ‘Bird’), into the resort’s enchanting tree canopy to witness the final songs of the day’s avian chorus. Equipped with a comprehensive bird guide, binoculars and a nature map, we settle into comfortable spots, ready to observe the wondrous life around us. While waiting, Nok shares fascinating insights, such as the diet of the Blue-throated Bee-eater that we spot, consisting mainly of bees, wasps and dragonflies. It’s an enriching experience, tracing the journey the birds take across the kingdom, just as we have done.
From winding through mountainous jungle by motorbike and sidecar to greet elephants, to cruising the rivers and khlongs that connect ancient cultures and bustling cities, to the white sand and turquoise invitation the oceans offer above and below the horizon, this journey is now complete.